with umami. In the center bobs a generous ball of steamed Dungeness crab meat; twin stems of mitsuba (Japanese parsley) rest atop, bound in a sailor’s knot. The flavors are purity itself: sweet, minerally, oceanic. But this dish, the fourth in 12
years he spent staging at temples of modern Japanese cooking such as Tokyo’s three-Michelin-starred Ishikawa. Similar to Niki Nakayama’s n/naka, another extraordinary restaurant that builds on kaiseki traditions, a reservation at Hayato has become the